Fries witwerk paper presentation

at the Historical Clothing and Textiles in Europe Conference

Me, ready for my presentation. (Hard to provide actual evidence of presenting at a conference when you’re the only person in the room!)

On Saturday night I presented my first paper at an academic conference, which is a bit of a big deal for me! The conference was the Historical Clothing and Textiles in Europe Conference as part of the 84th Annual International Conference of the University of Latvia. Sadly, I wasn’t actually in Latvia as the whole conference was online, which, while disappointing to not be there, was definitely advantageous financially and time-wise!

My paper was “Fries witwerk: its stylistic and technical links with Hardanger and Ukrainian embroidery”.

The abstract:

This paper explores Fries witwerk (Frisian whitework, an embroidery technique from Friesland, in the Netherlands) in relation to Hardanger embroidery from Norway and selected Ukrainian embroidery traditions, examining stylistic and technical connections across different periods and regions. While these forms have typically been studied in isolation, a comparative analysis of techniques and recurring motifs reveals patterns that suggest historical links, shared approaches, or parallel developments. By situating Fries witwerk within a broader European context, the study highlights both the distinctive features of regional traditions and the similarities that suggest networks of influence, adaptation, or parallel innovation over time and space.

Drawing on visual analysis of historical textiles, published sources, and practical reconstruction of characteristic stitches, the study investigates how these techniques and motifs were adapted and reinterpreted in different contexts. Practical reconstruction allows the researcher to engage directly with the technical challenges of each embroidery, providing embodied insight into the skills, decisions, and constraints that shaped these traditions. These observations highlight how comparing technical methods and motifs can shed light on the pathways by which embroidery travelled and transformed across Europe, revealing both local innovation and wider patterns of exchange.

This investigation forms a preliminary component of a planned doctoral research project that aims to create a genealogical mapping of whitework embroidery traditions (tracing the relationships between the embroideries themselves, not primarily their makers). By presenting this focused case study on Fries witwerk, the paper illustrates an approach for comparing and contextualising techniques across regions, as well as the potential for identifying points of convergence and divergence in historical practice, contributing both to the study of historical textiles and to understanding broader cultural exchange in Europe.

I enjoyed being able to be part of the conference, and learning what others are working on. In the discussion following my paper, I was so grateful that there were several other participants who offered interesting information to me that I will explore further. I love the collaborative nature and collegial sharing of information of such experiences.

Thanks to the organisers who provided us with this platform to present our research and share across disciplines.

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